Gary Walsh 94: It’s a wine of zing, line and length. Ripe lemon and peel, pink grapefruit, some spicy cedar oak, a minor amount of chicken stock funk, but pretty much clean and without the struck match that’s so a la mode. It’s tight and flinty, all citrus and zesty lemon, energetic and driving, with crunch and green olive to close. It’s perhaps a little well-worn, but very much a ‘Chablis’ style we have here. It’s very good, and beautifully made.